What Is Uniqlo U Without the Lemaire Duo?

This week’s unveiling of the latest Uniqlo U range not only marks the 10th anniversary of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s line, but also their final release as its head designers. After months of speculation, Uniqlo’s messaging around the FW26 collection has explicitly confirmed the conclusion of their direction over Uniqlo U. However, the brand also stated that “their meticulous tailoring and timeless designs will continue to live on in the next chapter of Uniqlo U,” signaling that the line has not reached the end of its life.

For the last 10 years, Uniqlo U has served as the Japanese retailer’s more elevated, design-forward range, coexisting with its established main line. Binance reported that in 2025, Uniqlo U may have contributed an estimated $1 billion in annual retail sales, amounting to 5% of Uniqlo’s revenue for the fiscal year. Uniqlo U’s consistent popularity was only amplified by the accelerating growth of Lemaire. According to BoF, Lemaire’s sales grew from €10 million in 2019 to over €103 million in 2024. The relationship was mutually beneficial.

In short, it was the right partnership at the right time. During the 2010s, fashion-conscious consumers began to take greater notice of quality and developed a taste for more considered minimalism amid rapid microtrends. It was the era when the “normcore” aesthetic emerged and “athleisure” evolved into a distinct category in the fashion landscape. In tandem with Uniqlo’s pared-back basics, Uniqlo U offered a meeting in the middle: a versatile balance of function and style, consistent newness executed with a timeless sensibility, and designer-approved pieces at accessible price points.

But the Lemaire-powered U label wasn’t the first or only collaboration the retailer has had. The company had been perfecting its formula in the years leading up to Uniqlo U. Notably, it seemed to understand the movement toward minimalism with preceding collaborations: Jil Sander (2009), Undercover (2012), Theory (2014), and more. Shortly after a limited-edition Lemaire x Uniqlo collection in 2015, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran were appointed the inaugural designers of the Uniqlo U line and the artistic directors of the company’s R&D (research and development) lab in Paris.

Since then, the retailer has expanded its scope, maintaining ongoing collaborative lines with designer Jonathan Anderson, tennis player Roger Federer, and artist KAWS. Furthermore, in 2024, the company appointed Clare Waight Keller as global creative director and introduced her dedicated Uniqlo: C line. By 2025, Fast Retailing saw its Japanese revenue surpass 1 trillion yen, a first-ever for the company. While much of this can be attributed to global retail expansion, the label is also increasingly defined by its longstanding collaborators, so it's worth asking whether their departures could affect its success. With the brand saying farewell to the duo that has propped up its longest-running collaboration, what’s next for Uniqlo U?

The news leaves open questions about whether the company will appoint a new designer for the U line or if it can continue successfully without a collaborative leader. The retailer has invested deeply in relationships with some of the most respected designers, and it’s the Lemaire duo who have done much of the heavy lifting for the brand over the last decade. Uniqlo stands out as a mass brand with maison-level designer affiliations, and if we can learn anything from the major fashion houses, it's that the DNA of the best creative directors remains long after their leadership concludes.

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